1. Diamond Blade Fabrication
Diamond blades consist of four components: diamond crystals, a bonding system,
a segment, and a metal core.
Diamond Crystals
The diamond crystals in MK blades are synthetic (man-made) rather than natural.
This gives them a consistency that can be relied upon during the enormous stresses
they encounter while grinding. The foremost performance factor in diamond-blade
sawing is the type, concentration and size of these diamond crystals. The extensive
diamond aptitude and sawing expertise MK has acquired goes into the selection
of the proper diamond crystals for our wide range of blades.
Bonding Matrix
Diamond crystals are held in place by a sintering process of specially blended
metal powders. This bonding matrix is crucial to the overall performance of
the MK diamond blade and serves several vital functions:
- Disperses and supports the diamonds
- Provides controlled wear while allowing diamond protrusion
- Prevents diamond �pull-out�
- Acts as a heat sink
- Distributes impact and load as the diamond attacks the cutting surface
During the sawing action, the wearing away of the matrix exposes new diamond
crystals providing fresh cutting points for the blade.
Metal Bonds
The diamond crystals and bonding matrix are heated and shaped into specially
engineered rims / segments. These rims / segments are wider than the blade core
to which they will be attached, and provide the clearance to promote material
discharge and discourage blade binding. The rims / segments are specifically
designed to wear at a rate appropriate to the material being cut. Large particles
of soft, abrasive materials wear down the matrix faster than the small particles
removed from hard dense materials. Therefore, softer, more abrasive materials
require a �tough to wear� (hard) bond; less abrasive materials require an �easy
wear� (soft) bond.
Premium Steel Core
The diamond saw blade cores are made from high alloy, heat-treated steel. Depending
on the type of blade selected, the steel cores are specifically designed to
support the appropriate rim or segment. About the periphery of the core, the
various rims or segments are affixed through a brazing or laser welding process.
An arbor hole is precisely bored in the center, and the entire core is �tensioned�
or tuned so that the stresses of centripetal force are minimized, permitting
the blade to spin true on the spindle.
2. Understanding Diamond Blades As Cutting Tools
In general, a diamond blade's performance is measured in two ways. The first
is how proficiently the blade grinds through the material; the second is the
life of the blade or total footage yielded by the blade. There are a variety
of MK diamond blade models and designs from which to choose. Each blade is meticulously
engineered to provide cutability, longevity and safety. When you select the
best-suited diamond blade for the job / application / material, you will ensure
peak performance and maximum investment return
How the Diamond Blade Works
Diamond blades do not really cut, instead they grind material through an action
of friction with the synthetic diamond-bonding matrix. The diamond crystals,
often visible at the leading edge and sides of the rim / segment, remove material
by scratching out particles of hard, dense materials, or by knocking out larger
particles of loosely bonded abrasive material. This process eventually cracks
or fractures the diamond particle, breaking it down into smaller pieces. As
a result of this phenomenon, a diamond blade for cutting soft, abrasive material
must have a hard metal matrix composition to resist this erosion long enough
for the exposed diamonds to be properly utilized. Conversely, a blade for cutting
a hard, non-abrasive material must have a soft bond to ensure that it will erode
and expose the diamonds embedded in the matrix. These simple principles are
the foundation of �controlled bond erosion.�
Types of Diamond Blade Cutting
There are two basic types of cutting � dry or wet. The best choice of blade
depends upon:
- The requirements of the job
- The machine / tool utilizing the diamond blade
- The preference of the operator
In the case of DRY cutting, the overwhelming popularity and quantity of hand-held
saws and the flexible nature of MK Diamond blades to professionally handle most
ceramic, masonry, stone and concrete materials, make the DRY cutting blade a
very attractive tool. When using a DRY blade, the user must be aware of distinct
operating practices to ensure optimum performance. DRY cutting blades require
sufficient airflow about the blade to prevent overheating of the steel core.
This is best accomplished by shallow, intermittent cuts of the material along
with periods of �free-spinning� for several seconds to maximize the cooling
process.
For WET cutting applications, MK has the exact blade to complement both the
material to be cut and the wet-cutting machine to be used. During cutting operations,
liberal amounts of water act as a coolant to support the cutting effectiveness
and longevity of the WET blade. Additionally, using water adds to the overall
safety of cutting operations by keeping the dust signature down
Know What You're Cutting
For maximum cutting speed and blade life, you should match the blade as closely
as possible to the material you're cutting. Characteristics of the concrete
you need to know include the compressive strength, the size and hardness of
the aggregate, and the type of sand. Blade manufacturers consider concrete with
a compressive strength of 3000 psi or lower a soft material and concrete with
a strength above 6000 psi a hard material. Therefore, you should use a blade
with a hard bond to cut the lower-strength concrete and a blade with a soft
bond to cut high-psi concrete. Similarly, hard aggregate (such as trap rock,
basalt, and quartz) dulls diamond particles quickly, so use a blade with a softer
bond to allow new diamonds to be exposed as needed. The size of the aggregate
in concrete primarily affects blade performance. When cutting through larger
aggregate (3/4 inch and up), the blade cuts and wears more slowly. Pea gravel
(smaller than 3/8 inch) is easier to cut, but the blade will wear faster. The
type of sand determines the abrasiveness of concrete, with sharp sand being
the most abrasive and round sand the least. To determine the sharpness of the
sand, you need to know where it's from. Crushed or river bank sand is usually
sharp while river sand is round and nonabrasive. The more abrasive the sand,
the harder the bond requirement. What if you will be cutting more than one type
of concrete? As a general rule, manufacturers recommend choosing the blade based
on the material you'll be working with most often or the material for which
top blade performance is most important. Most diamond blades can cut a range
of materials.
Decide When You Want to Make the Cut
If you're placing new concrete, you have the option of cutting control joints
while the concrete is still green (about 1 to 2 hours after finishing) or the
next day after the concrete has hardened. The timing of the cut will dictate
the type of blade you select. Some decorative concrete contractors prefer to
cut concrete while it's still green because it minimizes the occurrence of ugly
random cracking (especially in warm weather, when concrete hydrates faster)
and permits shallower joint depths of an inch or less. However, green concrete
will be softer and more abrasive than the same concrete in a cured state. That's
because the sand in the mixture hasn't yet bonded to the mortar and it acts
as an abrasive. Blade manufacturers offer hard-bonded diamond blades specifically
for cutting green concrete.
Choose Wet or Dry Cutting
Often the decision of cutting wet or dry depends on your preference and job
requirements. Dry cutting eliminates messy wet slurry and the need to equip
saws with water tanks and hoses. Using a blade wet, on the other hand, reduces
dust but makes it necessary to contain or clean up the slurry. For indoor jobs
where you need to keep the work area dry, a dry-cutting blade and compatible
saw may be your only option.
The main difference between wet and dry blades is the weld.. Dry-cutting blades
have segment welds that resist heat and don't require water for cooling. They
are usually intended for intermittent cutting and for use on handheld, low-horsepower
saws. If you're sawing decorative pattern lines in concrete, dry-cutting blades
are often the best choice for making crisp, clean cuts (see Sawing and Patterning).
These decorative cuts are typically only 1/16 to 1/4 inch deep and do not function
as control joints.
Wet-cutting blades are typically used with walk-behind saws for cutting joints
in cured concrete flatwork because water cooling permits deeper cuts. Although
it's possible to use most dry-cutting blades with water, never use a wet-cutting
blade dry. Always continuously cool the blade with water to avoid segment loss
and blade warpage.
Make Sure the Blade Is Compatible with Your Sawcutting Equipment
What type of handheld saw or flat saw are you using? What is the horsepower
and operating speed (or rpm)? Blade manufacturers provide charts with recommended
operating speeds and maximum safe operating speeds for their blades. You'll
also find this information stamped right on the blade itself. Always match the
blade with the speed range of the saw. Operating the blade at a lower speed
than recommended can diminish its cutting life and performance. Exceeding the
blade's maximum rpm rating can damage the blade and risk injury to the saw operator.
Other factors to consider:
- Blades designed for wet use only must be operated by saws that can deliver
a continuous supply of water to cool the blade.
- Most blades for cutting green concrete are designed for use with special
early-entry saws that minimize joint raveling and spalling.
- Don't use a blade that exceeds the maximum blade diameter and cutting depth
capacity of the saw.
Choose Optimum Performance vs. Maximum Economy
Manufacturers typically offer diamond blades at various quality and cost levels,
ranging from basic economy to top-of-the-line premium or professional versions.
Generally the key difference among these options is the diamond content, which
is the greatest raw material cost in manufacturing the blade. Moving up from
a standard to a premium blade may boost the cost 20% or more, but you'll get
a higher concentration of diamonds and significantly longer blade life. Basically,
you need to decide what's more important: the initial cost of the blade or total
sawing cost. For small cutting jobs where you won't be giving the blade much
of a workout, you may save money by going with the economy blade. For large
jobs or frequent use, a top-quality blade may actually be less expensive in
the long run based on a cost-per-cut breakdown. A premium-quality diamond blade
isn't cheap. Expect to pay several hundred dollars or more, depending on the
blade diameter. If that's more than you're willing to invest for an occasional
cutting job, consider hiring a professional sawing contractor to do the work.
To locate a contractor in your area, visit the member directory of the Concrete
Sawing & Drilling Association (CSDA).
Determine if a Decorative Cut Is Important
Want to achieve the look of a decorative hand-tooled joint without all the
labor? It's possible by using beveled saw blades with a special cutting edge
that produces chamfered or radiused cuts in green concrete. Learn more about
the applications of these blades for decorative concrete projects.
Look for the CSDA Code
If you follow all of the steps, you will be armed with the information necessary
to find exactly the type of diamond blade you'll need for your next sawing project.
Now it will be easier than ever to identify whether a certain blade meets your
requirements thanks to a new blade application code (PDF) developed by CSDA
and endorsed by the Masonry and Concrete Saw Manufacturers Institute (SMI).
The code, which is in a three-letter format separated by dashes, will be permanently
imprinted on the blade. And it will tell you at a glance whether the blade is
for wet or dry use, what type of material it can cut, and the saw type it's
designed to work with.