Husqvarna FS 4800 D26, 26" Diesel Front Pivot Electric Tracking Walk Behind Saw with Blade Clutch, DOC 10.5", 48 HP Yanmar, Electric Start (965165209)

Buying the right saw depends on these factors:

What am I cutting; brick, block, tile, other?

Your first step is to determine the type of materials being cut. A brick, block and paver saw can cut tile but it is not recommended using a tile saw to cut brick or pavers. Brick, paver and block saws reduce the rpm of the blade to take full advantage of the motor rpm to allow cutting of the thicker materials. This is equivalent to driving up a steep incline in first gear as opposed to 5th gear.

Tile saws are generally direct drive to spin faster for less chipping. Tile thickness' typically range from 3/8" to 3/4". Length is more of a factor than thickness. If your tiles are 18" x 18" then you would want a saw that allows for cutting this tile on a diagonal. The Pythagorean Theorem comes into play. Finally! In algebraic terms, "a2 + b2 = c2" where "c" is the hypotenuse while "a" and "b" are the sides of the triangle.

Do I want gas or electric?

Most of the choices are for electric but the brick and block saws do have a gasoline option. Gas units should be used if you are operating in an environment where electricity is not readily available. The electric units are mostly 110v units unless 220v is needed. The majority, for convenience sake is the 110v unit. Unless you will be cutting large amounts of brick or block then the trouble of finding a 220v source is outweighed by the simplicity of 110v. The tile and slab saws are only in electric. The Combicut 1000 is available in 110 or 220 volt. The thickness of the material and the use either in a shop or on job-sites should be considered.

What cord should I use?

The majority of most saw related issues stem from the factor of which extension cord size is used. You MUST use the right extension cord for the application. My rule of thumb is to use the shortest length possible. The gauge is also very critical. You should use a cord thick enough so as to minimize voltage drop due to resistance of copper wires. 12 gauge 50' max, 10 gauge if over 50' but not to exceed 100'.

If you have applications that require more than 100' then you should consider a gas unit. The IMER saws do have "low voltage coils" built into the switch that will become a sacrificial piece if voltage is consistently used below recommendations. This "low voltage coil" protects the switch,motor and capacitor from overheating due to insufficient electricity. This is much like a fuse except that a fuse will blow with too much electricity passed through it. This is a great savior of IMER motors and switches. Keep in mind that if your "coil" trips then your electrical source and cords are the prime suspect.

What blade should I use?

The blade on a saw must be the right blade for the material being cut. (Read that again). The blade is similar to the tires on your car. Imagine buying that ultra expensive, exotic Italian sports car with more horsepower, braking and handling than you could wish for. Now take that car and put all season, off the shelf radials on it. What would happen to your acceleration, braking, handling, etc? I am not saying to buy the most expensive blade available but use the blade that was designed for the material being cut.

There is a trade-off just like in the sports car. The sticky, gummy tires made for your exotic sports car will not give you much mileage but you can be sure that the tires will harness that power when you need it. A blade to cut porcelain is designed to cut porcelain which means that it will wear quicker as it exposes new diamonds. Trade-off is the name of the game. Hard material = softer blade. Softer material like concrete block is fine with an average blade which is designed not to wear prematurely.

Choose wisely and remember that price is not indicative of the blade needed for the job.