Buying the right saw depends on these factors:
What am I cutting; brick, block, tile, other?
Your first step is to determine the type of materials being cut. A brick, block
and paver saw can cut tile but it is not recommended using a tile saw to cut
brick or pavers. Brick, paver and block saws reduce the rpm of the blade to
take full advantage of the motor rpm to allow cutting of the thicker materials.
This is equivalent to driving up a steep incline in first gear as opposed to
5th gear.
Tile saws are generally direct drive to spin faster for less chipping. Tile
thickness' typically range from 3/8" to 3/4". Length is more of a factor than
thickness. If your tiles are 18" x 18" then you would want a saw that allows
for cutting this tile on a diagonal. The Pythagorean Theorem comes into play.
Finally! In algebraic terms, "a2 + b2 = c2" where "c" is the hypotenuse while
"a" and "b" are the sides of the triangle.
Do I want gas or electric?
Most of the choices are for electric but the brick and block saws do have a
gasoline option. Gas units should be used if you are operating in an environment
where electricity is not readily available. The electric units are mostly 110v
units unless 220v is needed. The majority, for convenience sake is the 110v
unit. Unless you will be cutting large amounts of brick or block then the trouble
of finding a 220v source is outweighed by the simplicity of 110v. The tile and
slab saws are only in electric. The Combicut 1000 is available in 110 or 220
volt. The thickness of the material and the use either in a shop or on job-sites
should be considered.
What cord should I use?
The majority of most saw related issues stem from the factor of which extension
cord size is used. You MUST use the right extension cord for the application.
My rule of thumb is to use the shortest length possible. The gauge is also very
critical. You should use a cord thick enough so as to minimize voltage drop
due to resistance of copper wires. 12 gauge 50' max, 10 gauge if over 50' but
not to exceed 100'.
If you have applications that require more than 100' then you should consider
a gas unit. The IMER saws do have "low voltage coils" built into the switch
that will become a sacrificial piece if voltage is consistently used below recommendations.
This "low voltage coil" protects the switch,motor and capacitor from overheating
due to insufficient electricity. This is much like a fuse except that a fuse
will blow with too much electricity passed through it. This is a great savior
of IMER motors and switches. Keep in mind that if your "coil" trips then your
electrical source and cords are the prime suspect.
What blade should I use?
The blade on a saw must be the right blade for the material being cut. (Read
that again). The blade is similar to the tires on your car. Imagine buying that
ultra expensive, exotic Italian sports car with more horsepower, braking and
handling than you could wish for. Now take that car and put all season, off
the shelf radials on it. What would happen to your acceleration, braking, handling,
etc? I am not saying to buy the most expensive blade available but use the blade
that was designed for the material being cut.
There is a trade-off just like in the sports car. The sticky, gummy tires
made for your exotic sports car will not give you much mileage but you can be
sure that the tires will harness that power when you need it. A blade to cut
porcelain is designed to cut porcelain which means that it will wear quicker
as it exposes new diamonds. Trade-off is the name of the game. Hard material
= softer blade. Softer material like concrete block is fine with an average
blade which is designed not to wear prematurely.
Choose wisely and remember that price is not indicative of the blade needed
for the job.
