Buying the right saw depends on these factors:
What am I cutting; brick, block, tile, other?
Your first step is to determine the type of materials being cut.
A brick, block and paver saw can cut tile but it is not recommended
using a tile saw to cut brick or pavers. Brick, paver and block
saws reduce the rpm of the blade to take full advantage of the
motor rpm to allow cutting of the thicker materials. This is
equivalent to driving up a steep incline in first gear as opposed
to 5th gear.
Tile saws are generally direct drive to spin faster for less
chipping. Tile thickness' typically range from 3/8" to 3/4". Length
is more of a factor than thickness. If your tiles are 18" x 18"
then you would want a saw that allows for cutting this tile on a
diagonal. The Pythagorean Theorem comes into play. Finally! In
algebraic terms, "a2 + b2 = c2" where "c" is the hypotenuse while
"a" and "b" are the sides of the triangle.
Do I want gas or electric?
Most of the choices are for electric but the brick and block
saws do have a gasoline option. Gas units should be used if you are
operating in an environment where electricity is not readily
available. The electric units are mostly 110v units unless 220v is
needed. The majority, for convenience sake is the 110v unit. Unless
you will be cutting large amounts of brick or block then the
trouble of finding a 220v source is outweighed by the simplicity of
110v. The tile and slab saws are only in electric. The Combicut
1000 is available in 110 or 220 volt. The thickness of the material
and the use either in a shop or on job-sites should be
considered.
What cord should I use?
The majority of most saw related issues stem from the factor of
which extension cord size is used. You MUST use the right extension
cord for the application. My rule of thumb is to use the shortest
length possible. The gauge is also very critical. You should use a
cord thick enough so as to minimize voltage drop due to resistance
of copper wires. 12 gauge 50' max, 10 gauge if over 50' but not to
exceed 100'.
If you have applications that require more than 100' then you
should consider a gas unit. The IMER saws do have "low voltage
coils" built into the switch that will become a sacrificial piece
if voltage is consistently used below recommendations. This "low
voltage coil" protects the switch,motor and capacitor from
overheating due to insufficient electricity. This is much like a
fuse except that a fuse will blow with too much electricity passed
through it. This is a great savior of IMER motors and switches.
Keep in mind that if your "coil" trips then your electrical source
and cords are the prime suspect.
What blade should I use?
The blade on a saw must be the right blade for the material
being cut. (Read that again). The blade is similar to the tires on
your car. Imagine buying that ultra expensive, exotic Italian
sports car with more horsepower, braking and handling than you
could wish for. Now take that car and put all season, off the shelf
radials on it. What would happen to your acceleration, braking,
handling, etc? I am not saying to buy the most expensive blade
available but use the blade that was designed for the material
being cut.
There is a trade-off just like in the sports car. The sticky,
gummy tires made for your exotic sports car will not give you much
mileage but you can be sure that the tires will harness that power
when you need it. A blade to cut porcelain is designed to cut
porcelain which means that it will wear quicker as it exposes new
diamonds. Trade-off is the name of the game. Hard material = softer
blade. Softer material like concrete block is fine with an average
blade which is designed not to wear prematurely.
Choose wisely and remember that price is not indicative of the
blade needed for the job.